Your skin isn't just a surface. It's an ecosystem.

Living on and in your skin is a whole community of microorganisms, collectively known as the skin microbiome. When that ecosystem is balanced, it plays an important role in supporting the skin barrier and helping skin stay resilient. It's also one of the reasons we like Esse so much at Pfeffer Sal.

While there are plenty of skincare brands talking about probiotics, Esse has made the skin microbiome the centre of its approach. Its formulations are designed to support, shift and restore the microbiome, with a focus on long-term skin health rather than simply making skin look different overnight. And because we're rather more interested in healthy skin than a quick fix, that gets our attention.

At Pfeffer Sal, we believe healthy skin isn't simply about making it look good today. It's about supporting the skin's own ability to function well, protect itself and remain resilient over time. That's where Esse fits beautifully!

The brand takes a microbiome-first approach to skincare, focusing on the relationship between the microorganisms living on your skin and the skin barrier. Its current range of products is designed around different skin types and concerns.

In other words, Esse isn't trying to wage war on your skin, it's trying to work with it.

Esse was founded in South Africa in 2002 by scientist Trevor Steyn. Originally, the brand focused on certified organic skincare, but Trevor's thinking shifted significantly when the first results from the Human Microbiome Project emerged.

The idea that the human body, skin included, is an ecosystem of human and microbial cells became the starting point for a different way of thinking about skincare. Rather than simply applying individual ingredients to target individual concerns, Esse began researching how skincare could influence the microbial ecosystem itself. It's a philosophy that still runs through the brand today.

Esse describes its products as being formulated to support, shift and restore the microbiome, and its professional offering continues to put microbiome science at the forefront.

For us, that's what makes the brand particularly interesting. The microbiome isn't a marketing add-on. It's the starting point.

The skin microbiome is the diverse community of microorganisms that live on your skin. It includes bacteria, fungi and other microbes, and its composition varies from person to person and across different areas of the body.

Think of it as your skin's resident community. You don't want to evict everyone and start again; you want to create the right conditions for a healthy, balanced ecosystem.

The microbiome and skin barrier are closely connected. Your skin barrier helps keep moisture in and external irritants out, while the microorganisms living on and in the skin contribute to its natural defence system.

This is particularly interesting if you experience dryness, sensitivity or reactivity, where maintaining barrier health becomes a much bigger part of the skincare conversation.

Rewilding is one of Esse's favourite words, and it can sound a little grand until you understand what they mean by it.

In simple terms, Esse uses probiotics and prebiotics within its formulations to help support and influence the skin's microbial environment.

It's less about completely changing your skin and more about creating conditions in which a healthy microbial ecosystem can thrive. Think less 'nuke it from orbit' and more 'let's get the garden back in order'.

The terminology can get confusing, so let's keep it simple.

• Probiotics are live beneficial microorganisms.

• Prebiotics are nutrients that help support microorganisms.

• And then there's postbiotics, useful compounds produced by microorganisms.

Esse uses all three within its microbiome-focused approach, although its use of live probiotics is one of the things that particularly distinguishes the brand. The idea is not simply to add a probiotic to a bottle and call it a day. The strain, formulation and delivery all matter. Which brings us neatly to the next bit...

If you've been following skincare for any length of time, you'll probably have heard a lot about the skin barrier, for good reason!

Your skin barrier helps regulate water loss and protects the skin from external stressors. When it's functioning well, skin tends to feel more comfortable, hydrated and resilient. When it's compromised, you may notice dryness, tightness, sensitivity or increased reactivity.

The microbiome and barrier are part of the same bigger picture. A healthy microbial environment can support the skin's natural functions, while a healthy barrier creates a better environment for the microbiome.

It's one of the reasons we're increasingly interested in skin health rather than simply skin correction. Sometimes the cleverest skincare routine is the one that gives your skin a little less to fight with.

There is certainly no shortage of skincare brands talking about probiotics and the microbiome these days. What makes Esse interesting is how comprehensively the brand has built its philosophy around it.

Its current range includes products designed around different levels of microbiome support.

The brand also has a strong focus on organic and sustainable formulation, alongside its research-led approach. But for us, the most important point is this:

Esse is interested in the health of your skin, not simply how quickly it can make it look different.

That's a philosophy we can get behind.

Esse has taken its microbiome approach a step further with live probiotic products.

Its Live Probiotic Serum contains more than one billion living probiotic cells per ml, while the Live Probiotic Mist is powered by live Bacillus coagulans and is positioned around hydration, barrier support and microbiome balance. Esse reports 66% more hydration with one application when the mist is used as part of its skincare routine.

It's a fascinating area of skincare because these products aren't simply using ingredients associated with probiotics, they're designed around live microbial technology.

That said, live probiotics aren't something we'd suggest adding to your routine simply because the words sound impressive. As ever, the right product depends on your skin.

We've curated our Esse edit at Pfeffer Sal with different skin needs in mind. You don't need the entire collection. Your bathroom cabinet can breathe.

Esse Sensitive Cleanser

• Gentle, pH-balanced cleanser for sensitive or easily irritated skin
• Cleanses while supporting the skin barrier
• A great starting point for skin that feels overwhelmed or compromised

Esse Probiotic Serum

• Designed for ageing skin
• Supports skin resilience, radiance and the microbial environment
• A targeted way to introduce microbiome-focused skincare into your routine

Esse Resurrect Serum

• Formulated specifically for ageing, sensitive skin
• Supports hydration and the skin barrier
• Helps improve the appearance of firmness, elasticity and wrinkles
• For skin that wants results without being bullied into them

Esse Live Probiotic Mist

• Lightweight, water-based mist suitable for all skin types
• Contains live Bacillus coagulans
• Supports hydration, barrier function and microbiome balance
• An easy way to add a little microbiome support to your daily routine

Yes, but the same rule applies here as with any active skincare routine: more isn't necessarily more.

If you're already using retinol, acids, vitamin C or other active ingredients, there's no need to throw everything at your skin at once.

Esse can be incorporated into a broader routine depending on your individual skin and what you're trying to achieve. If your skin is sensitive or compromised, we'd generally prioritise cleansing, hydration and barrier support before adding multiple actives.

Your skin doesn't need a chemistry experiment every evening!

Esse has a dedicated Sensitive range designed for sensitive and reactive skin, making it particularly relevant for those who find that their skin doesn't appreciate a more aggressive approach to skincare.

The wider range can also be used according to individual skin needs, but sensitive skin isn't a diagnosis and everyone's triggers are different.

If your skin is persistently reactive, it's worth getting professional advice rather than simply changing products every few days and hoping for the best.