Treating Hyperpigmentation in Darker Skin Tones
Before we begin, let's start with the basics; understanding the difference between pigmentation and hyperpigmentation...
Pigmentation is the colouring of a person's skin, which comes from the pigment called melanin.
Hyperpigmentation is a skin condition that occurs when your skin overproduces its pigment, melanin, which leads to darker patches of skin and an uneven, patchy skin tone.
Whilst we all experience pigmentation, darker skin tones are more prone to hyperpigmentation. This is because the melanocytes (the cells that make melanin) in darker skin types produce more melanin than lighter skin types. When the pigmentation process is triggered, the melanin is more readily available and therefore hyperpigmentation is more likely to occur.
When treating hyperpigmentation in darker skin types, a careful approach is best as we don’t want to do anything to the skin that could trigger further hyperpigmentation. Below are our favourite treatments, products and lifestyle tweaks you can do to help prevent, treat, and manage hyperpigmentation safely and effectively. Let's look after your skin together!
To start, what causes hyperpigmentation?
As we said, hyperpigmentation is the result of an overproduction of melanin in the skin, which results in darker areas, patches or marks on the skin. Hyperpigmentation can be the result of:
Sun damage - Contrary to popular belief, darker skin tones are just as susceptible to sun damage. Sun damage can present itself as patchy, uneven skin tone or sun spots (more concentrated darker areas).
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation - This is a type of hyperpigmentation that forms after the skin has experienced a form of trauma, such as a breakout, irritation, or injury. As the skin goes through its healing process, it produces melanin which can lead to longer term discolouration of the skin.
Melasma - This hyperpigmentation is caused by hormonal changes such as pregnancy, change in contraception or sometimes even ovulation. It can also be caused by stress or a change in medication. Melasma presents as equal sides of discolouration on both sides of the face which can sometimes resemble a butterfly, or on the forehead and top lip.
What should your skincare look like?
You should introduce preventative products into your routine to stop the change in pigmentation before it has a chance to impact your skin! If your hyperpigmentation is the result of UV exposure, then it’s time to get religious with SPF application. It’s the only way to protect your skin from further sun damage. This really is a non-negotiable as not only will UV rays create hyperpigmentation but it will also darken existing pigmentation on the skin. And you mustn't neglect the skin on the rest of your body as well... As the old adage goes; reapply, reapply, reapply!
If you experience post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after breakouts or because of sensitivity, then it’s important to address this before treating the hyperpigmentation as it’s likely to return with the next flare up. To treat congested, acne prone skin, we love products containing salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid - BHA) which reduces inflammation, controls oil production and scoops out debris from the pores. Synergie Skin ReVeal contains both salicylic acid and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) which are fantastic at breaking up hyperpigmentation (more on that later).
If your skin is sensitive or prone to rosacea and irritation, look for barrier repairing ingredients, like vitamin B which not only stimulates ceramide production (essential for a healthy skin barrier) but also reduces the hyperpigmentation process - win win!
Once you’re managing any causes of hyperpigmentation, you can start introducing pigmentation targeting ingredients into your routine! The products we have at the clinic are not skin ‘bleaching’ or ‘whitening’. They interrupt the process of hyperpigmentation, stopping the overproduction of melanin so, over time, the appearance fades.
Products to help with pigmentation
What ingredients support improvement?
Vitamin A - Vitamin A or retinoids help to stimulate cell turnover and reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone.
Vitamin B5 - Also known as niacinamide, it’s a real all rounder ingredient that helps to suppress the process of hyperpigmentation, promoting a more even skin tone.
Vitamin C - Vitamin C is one of the most well known active ingredients in treating hyperpigmentation. It stops the pigmentation process before it can overproduce melanin as well as being a potent antioxidant, which can work with your SPF in protecting your skin from UV damage.
Tyrosinase inhibitors - Tyrosinase inhibitors work by stopping tyrosinase, an enzyme that is important in the synthesis of melanin from triggering the process. Common tyrosinase inhibitors are licorice extract, vitamin c and kojic acid.
A tailored exfoliator - This will help to slough off old hyperpigmented skin cells, as well as enhancing product penetration, meaning your other products will be able to perform much better. Alpha-Hydroxy Acids such as glycolic and lactic are great for gentle resurfacing. If you’re more sensitive then reach for enzymatic exfoliators. Don't go for scrubs as this irritation could lead to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
How can treatments help?
At Pfeffer Sal, we can approach hyperpigmentation with many different technologies and ingredients. If you are looking to treat hyperpigmentation, most heat and laser-based treatments are off the table as these can trigger post inflammatory pigmentation. As with any skin condition, a course of treatments performed regularly is the way to get the best results.
We recommend:
Glow and Go - We use medical grade resurfacers in this treatment to help target skin tone, texture and overall skin behaviour. At the clinic, we have a specific pigmentation-targeting resurfacer - speak to your dermal therapist about if this is the best avenue for you.
Ultra Synergy - This is our microneedling treatment that works in two ways to help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. The process of needling creates microchannels in the skin to aid a deep penetration of a bespoke cocktail of active ingredients that target pigmentation. Needling the skin also triggers the skin’s healing response, so it produces fresh, non-pigmented cells at a faster rate. As these cells rise to the surface, the skin will appear more even.
Under the Light - This is our LED Light Therapy treatment which is clinically proven to target and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation using red LED light.
ClearLift Laser - I know we just said to stay away from laser treatments, however, unlike traditional lasers that work on heating the skin, this is a photoacoustic wavelength which shatters the hyperpigmentation for optimal results.
